After first learning how to make prints with water-based pigments from Annie Bissett (https://anniebissett.com/home.html) in 2016, I went home and made a tiny (~ 2″ x 3″) little print using plywood samples I had received from various sources, and testing out about 5 different paper types. Most of these ended up being sent out to friends and family as Fall greetings.
I decided this year to make another Fall-themed print, which I started working on back in June, when I first made the “frankenblocks” from thin cherry and plywood plus applied chunks of wood for registration marks. Sadly, the set of prints is not going to be ready for the official start of Fall, since other things got in the way. The new goal is to have the first printing ready sometime during Fall. Here’s the key block and my first attempt at making hanshita for the color block transfers:
As you can see from the bleeding and the wrinkling, I used WAY too much liquid to print the hanshita. Try 2 turned out OK! When I used the glue I brought back from Japan (the stuff Dave uses to attach line-work transfers), most of the gampi peeled off with the mounting paper.
The transfer above was for the yellow color, which will cover the leaves entirely. Here are some shots of the carved areas for blue and light orange-ish:
And finally, here are the finished color blocks – 6 of them – cleaned off, before any pigment has been applied (yellow, red; light reddish, blue; dark green, and light green).
I will confess, I have done a small round of test printing! The results of that will need to wait until the next post.
So awhile back, I ordered some cherry “thin lumber” from Ocooch hardwoods to experiment with making laminated blocks for carving. I got three pieces of 6″ x 24″, quarter inch thick Black Cherry. The pieces I got are nice looking, no or miniscule imperfections, and flat-sawn. Not wanting to commit to a big print right away, I chopped one of the boards into six approximately 4-inch wide pieces, and grabbed some baltic birch ply from the garage to use as a base. When I glued them up, this is what resulted (on one side; the back side looks similar):
Then I commenced to designin’. Dang, 3.8 x 5.9 is pretty small, and when I take away registration marks and a margin from two of the sides, it gets even smaller. So I thought maybe I could paste on some extra wood to hold the registration cuts. But then it was unsupported, and so that it wouldn’t break off, I pasted on some supporting pieces of basswood under those. Here is the result:
Everything is glued with Titebond III, waterproof and outdoor-rated — except the layers of the plywood. So I can’t submerse the whole thing. But hopefully, the kento extensions will remain stable throughout carving and printing.
Yesterday I finished the key block design but wasn’t ready to move forward until the blocks were ready. I got all the Frankenblocks and all their prosthetics glued today, and did the key block transfer:
… and started carving:
I think I mentioned this already, but this is American black cherry. It seems to me to be harder than the Japanese mountain cherry I was able to use for the heron project. However, it is kind of fibrous. It will be interesting to see whether the fine lines I am trying to execute in this design will turn out ok. So far, at least, it seems better than shina in that I don’t have to be so paranoid about knocking off the top of a line.
I’ve been saying I wanted a carving project. I’m really happiest with a knife in my hand!
Thanks to some pressure from Dave Bull on the twitch stream the other day, I am advancing the importance of re-printing the firefly scene. Consequently, now that I have some nice aisuki (bullnose chisels) I’m going back to the blocks to clean them up, improve some lines, and flatten out the valleys.
Playing with colors is fun though! I’m almost finished with the block-cleanup; I will have to see what my schedule looks like (I have until 7/31 to do a small run of the heron print on A4 for the Miniprint show), but the next print could well be this one.
I use the same surface for drawing that I do for carving, and I can’t really put a hole through it, so here is my bench dog solution. I opted for holes at the edge where they won’t interfere with the drawing surface. For now, at least, since I don’t think I have to use much force when clearing large areas of waste, this will work.
Here’s the outside kento I built for the heron print. The blocks vary in thickness, so I have to prop some of them up. I used a chunk of yellow pine to make the registration block on the bottom, and boy is it hard!